JDCOOP: I wish I could say I've done a bunch of these but I haven't. No one else seems to be jumping on your query so perhaps I can give you some generalities that may apply.
In the barrel channel I would do about a 1 1/2 inch section under the chamber. I would do the area under the forend screw attachment area. I think I would range test it before relieving any of the glass under the seating area at this point. If it shoots good leave it, if not relieve it so you can experiment with screw tension. I would also put in a pad at the forend tip although in the end that area may prove best if floated (for accuracy). It's a try and see situation there.
Next examine the areas in the stock that support the rifle in recoil. If you are getting good metal to wood contact presently it may not be necessary to glass it. On the other hand the addition of glass can strengthen the support areas and seal them from penetration of gun oil into the wood.
As for full length bedding of the action sides and bottom flats I have to beg off on specifics here as I just don't know how that may affect assembly etc. I would think it could be done but don't have an 88 to examine. Good luck
That may be a tough one! I have the model 100, similar stock but an autoloader. As BC explains, the front stock/swivel screw is the problem. My 100 is NOT bedded, and just removing the stock to clean it moves my zero. Winchester told me 22 inch pounds to tighten the front screw... If I wasn't a mechanic I would'nt have the torque wrench like the rest of the world. You know what, it didn't make a hill of beans difference!
If you bed it, just make sure to "try" to get the same "tightness" each time.
for what it's worth.....
I have an early (3 digit) 88 that was glassbedded by the previous owner. The entire action and barrel was bedded which resulted in amazing accuracy, however, caused chacking of the wrist both above and below. I am looking for another cloverleaf pattern stock, and would do the barrel but not the action.
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