Shooters Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a Winchester Ranger model and have an issue with the lever not contacting the trigger block release unless an unreasonable amount of force is used to force the level to make contact. Has anyone else run into this problem and if so what was done to correct it. I stripped the rifle down and there is no buildup on any part which would prevent the level from closing completely. The bolt is completely forward when the action is closed. I am wondering if it is possible that a different lever was installed. I am at a complete loss as to what is causing this. Any suggestions would be appreciated. There is not a gunsmith locally to take it to so I am trying to correct this myself before having to mail to a gunsmith.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,970 Posts
I believe that is the Safety design.
Not sure what an "unreasonably" force is? All the ones I've seen require a reasonably "queze". this is the main reason I quit buying lever Winchesters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
193 Posts
I recently purchased a Winchester Ranger model and have an issue with the lever not contacting the trigger block release unless an unreasonable amount of force is used to force the level to make contact. Has anyone else run into this problem and if so what was done to correct it. I stripped the rifle down and there is no buildup on any part which would prevent the level from closing completely. The bolt is completely forward when the action is closed. I am wondering if it is possible that a different lever was installed. I am at a complete loss as to what is causing this. Any suggestions would be appreciated. There is not a gunsmith locally to take it to so I am trying to correct this myself before having to mail to a gunsmith.
My Winchester Ranger takes very little force to completely disengage the trigger block. I can do it with the tip of my little finger easily.
There is something wrong with yours, I wouldn't have a clue as to what it would be, I hope you figure it out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Mine takes very little pressure also.

I don't have much experience working on these guns but it sounds like the pin pushing in needs to be longer.
Whatever it pushes against may need tweaking so the pin doesn't need to push as far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I have a pre-64 94 also and you can definitely tell the difference in craftsmanship between it and the ranger model. The pre-64 has no trouble at all with the lever contacting the trigger safety with a minimum of pressure. In order for me to shoot the ranger model I have to put so much force that it affects my aim.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I had the same problem with my rifle. I had to put a death grip on the Lever to allow the release of the trigger by the Trigger Stop. To fix the problem, I had to narrow the gap between the Lever and the Trigger Stop Button. So I fully opened the Lever. And then mixed a small amount of "Quick JB Weld". Then I dabbed a tiny blob of the "Quick JB Weld" on the Lever at the point where it would contact the Trigger Stop Button. Then I let the "Quick JB Weld" dry overnight with the Lever left fully opened. It is best to stand the rifle butt stock end up so that gravity spreads out the blob of "Quick JB Weld". Do not close the Lever until the "Quick JB Weld" is dry. Otherwise you will get the goo on the Trigger Stop Button. The "Quick JB Weld" narrows the gap between the Lever and the Trigger Stop Button. It doesn't take much "Quick JB Weld" to close the gap, so use it sparingly. I got the idea from a friend of mine. He said that I should weld a bead of metal on the Lever at the point where it makes contacts the Trigger Stop Button. And then sand it down until I have the right gap between the Lever and Trigger Stop Button. But I don't know how to weld, and I didn't know anyone who did. So I went with the "Quick JB Weld" instead. I wouldn't do this type of repair on a rifle that has great value. But my rifle is one that I shoot all the time. There is no great value in it except to me because we have been together for a long time. And if I broke it or marred it because of my stupidity, it wouldn't be that great a loss, except to our history. So, again, don't do this if you are worried about the value of your rifle, or messing things up. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,970 Posts
the JB fix might work, but it is overriding the safety mechanism. It is unlocking the trigger before the lever is FULLY closed.
If you want a fix the internal spring would need adjusted.

It was making me twist the rifle before firing, not good in a fast handling gun. As I did...sell it and get a Marlin.
 

·
The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
Joined
·
36,130 Posts
This can happen even when the striker is cocked, because the safety can make divot in the firing pin that makes it hard to put the safety on. You may have to disassemble the bolt to figure out if that is what is causing the problem.

The main symptom is that the safety gets harder and harder to engage over time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
If your bolt is all the way forward and locked in place the problem is your lever. It can be fixed by putting a smaller diameter pin that connects your lever to the bolt. I cut off the end of a drill bit for a pin. Remove the large screw on the left hand side of your receiver toward the top and front. Open the action 1/4 of the way until the link pin lines up with the hole and push out the pin from the right hand side hole with a punch. Put in a smaller pin and test it till you get the right diameter to function correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,268 Posts
.


mac6150 - I would respectfully advise you bypass all the wonky work-arounds & disassemble the rifle for diagnosis.

I have found more than a few Winchester 94's, made between 1964 & 1982, with bent/kinked internal fire control / safety pivot pins.

Take the buttstock off & disassemble the lower tang components (there's plenty of picture tutorials online), drive out all the pins & inspect them.

After you remove the lower tang assembly, before drifting out pins, inspect every moving part for being bent and/or binding.

I replace bent/kinked pins with the shank of an appropriately-sized drill bit, ground to the proper length (same as whatever issue pin).




.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
927 Posts
When I had a Ranger in .44 Mag (early 90's) I had nothing but trouble with it. I sent it back to Winchester for repair and when it returned, the problems began again. It went down the road. The biggest issue with mine was the cartridges from the magazine jumping the stop and getting under the lifter. I got tired of pulling the end cap to empty it out.

Allen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,011 Posts
.

I have a '94 Winchester 45 Colt that had that same issue when new right out of the box. No way could the gun be fired, not even proof fired at the factory. The lever was incorrectly formed so that the back of the lever contacted the tang before the front part of the lever contacted the trigger block. A new lever solved the problem, the gun has never failed in 15 years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
.


mac6150 - I would respectfully advise you bypass all the wonky work-arounds & disassemble the rifle for diagnosis.

I have found more than a few Winchester 94's, made between 1964 & 1982, with bent/kinked internal fire control / safety pivot pins.

Take the buttstock off & disassemble the lower tang components (there's plenty of picture tutorials online), drive out all the pins & inspect them.

After you remove the lower tang assembly, before drifting out pins, inspect every moving part for being bent and/or binding.

I replace bent/kinked pins with the shank of an appropriately-sized drill bit, ground to the proper length (same as whatever issue pin).




.
Definitely inspect your rifle for problems . I should of said that I tried a lever off another gun and it worked fine. So I new it was the lever. You could tell that the slot for connecting the lever to the bolt wasn't the same. I could of filed it out more. But I chose a smaller diameter pin instead. If you file too much metal out it is hard to put back. Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,268 Posts
.

That's what I like about internet gun forums - multiple different experiences come to light in one place............. :cool:


.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top