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I learned this trick from an old gentleman that shot a Stevens 44 1/2 chambered for 32-40 with a Harry Pope barrel. I use it in all my front loaders, rifles and shotguns, plus pistols. Add two heaping tablespoons of powdered graphite to a pound of Black. It does not change the burning characteristics(SP?) of the balck at all! It will leave graphite in the residue in the barrel. Loads and shoots much better, shot to shot. No matter what the lube, "I" still think some added graphite helps in cast bullets also. lot's of people gripe that its messy! Oh well...............! "Messy is Fun!" In the "old days" Black had more graphite in it, but the "Spic & Span" boys complained too much. So...they cut back on the graphite and now loading is harder! OH Well............! Time to feed the bulldogs!
Best Regards, James
 

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Hi, Mr. Gates:
 As I said to Marshall when I told him how I bumped up his .308 lapping bullets to .314, for the .303, in the shop press, "It's not a stupid idea if it works!"

Bye
Jack
 

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Actually the graphite is used in the polishing stage and to help keep the flow characteristics...And it really only becomes a true lubricant under pressure (direct) which everytime you load you are wiping away fouling (Graphite and powder by-products)...As the powder charge comes into the correct ratio the amount of fouling will be minimized, a more complete burn. The same as in a car engine that has too much fuel and the right amount...

That may work in a cartridge rifle, but in a muzzleloader the pressures are  not that great and cannot achieve the temperatures to burn graphite, which is also used in gasket material for very high temperature applications.

The less graphite in the powder will require less wiping and cleaning...I sock my older, cheaper powder to remove the graphite, to be able to shoot more with less problems.

I can go between 50 and 80 shots between wiping and maintain excellent accuracy...And I shoot a wide variety of  muzzleloaders...from 40 caliber to 62 caliber...

I hope this helps...

Hilljack
 
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