Yes it's possible to flute the bolt, find machinist, insert money.

Yes the triggers are adjustable, just pull it from the stock, it's obvious. but possibly not what your want without parts. My Stalker 2 A-bolt was something like 6# on its lightest setting. Since they have enough levers and edges to make Rupe Goldberg blush, I didn't stone. Instead I bought a spring kit from Ernie the Gunsmith. Find him online, he is outta AZ. Still heavy, but acceptable. Since I'm selling that bloody Browning anyway, I figured why spend more money.

 

Yes it's possible to flute the bolt, find machinist, insert money.

Yes the triggers are adjustable, just pull it from the stock, it's obvious. but possibly not what your want without parts. My Stalker 2 A-bolt was something like 6# on its lightest setting.....

Ah...I recognize this chap- Darkker couldn't be more wrong here on all accounts- clearly he/she is demonstrating to every reader he/she has no understanding on the OP's question nor the subject at hand.

Browning's AB3 uses an intra-cradle design where the main sear's movement is first controlled using a swing gate- all in the open within a compacted frame sub assembly design that quite possibly is
the best out-of-the-box trigger to date. Its not the usual arrangement of cocking piece, sear and trigger setup. Instead it uses a primary sear and a secondary sear-
with the trigger itself being nothing more than a fulcrum that pushes against the secondary sear. This fulcrum trigger never sees any load imparted upon it.

Weight of pull and creep are governed by one piano wire and can be adjusted. Further adjustments require reducing the main sear's OAL to accommodate less engagement between sears.

With the overall performance I've obtained w/my AB3 (243Win), I decided to sell off some other rifles in favor of the AB3 design.

To date I own three and they have become my favorite part of my collection as well as my now go-to rifles....243,6.5CM, 270-

 

The question is about the A-Bolt III, which has a different trigger than the A-Bolt II has, so that information may not be accurate or helpful here.

To see if the AB3 trigger is adjustable, remove the trigger guard, and see if there is an adjustment screw behind the trigger. If there is a screw there, it can be used to adjust the trigger.

If there is a screw there, but it will not adjust to as low a weight as you like, several outfits including Rifle Basix offer a replacement spring that will allow a lower pull weight for that design. - If that is the design that you have, with the adjustment screw under the trigger guard, immediately behind the trigger.

A quick search of various "reviews" of the AB3 on the web does not return much information about the trigger. Most of them are more like product announcements than actual reviews, as is common with newer firearms these days.

No relevant information about adjusting the AB3 trigger was found on You-Tube at this time either, so I can only suggest that you remove the trigger-guard, and look for a screw immediately behind the trigger.

Failing to find that, remove the stock and look for an adjustment screw on the front of the trigger unit. A few pictures of the trigger unit after removing the trigger guard, and also the action from the stock would be greatly appreciated here, if you get a chance to do that.

 

Thanks to Darkker and Charles .-- there is a small hole on the back of the trigger guard which has been glued .
On closer examination I could change the small spring at the front of the trigger block to a lighter one.
The trigger blade is attached to the trigger guard, and comes out as 1 unit when you remove action from stock. The trigger assembly remains attached to the action. Weirdest thing I have ever seen . If they all made Win Mod 70 triggers life would be easy!!!! Hopefully i can but a trigger spring in Australia or maybe import one ( pretty expensive)
There doesn't appear to be any screws for adjustment . I would send photos ,but don't know how to do that (not at all tech savvy) Where could I get a spring that is around 3 pounds ( presently 4 pound 6 ounces)according to my trigger pull gauge? thanks for your help guys

 

There's no need to change out any of the springs you encounter on the AB3. There are 4 involved. The Trigger sear spring and main sear spring is the same as the Remington 40XB. No need for changing the springs on the safety pawls or the bolt lock either.

 

It is typical in this era for manufacturers to avoid product safety lawsuits by applying a blob of glue that blocks a trigger adjustment screw.

By using a bit of heat or solvent, or by cutting out the blob of glue, the gun owner assumes any and all responsibility for the act of doing so in order to adjust the trigger.

If there is a gunsmith there, it may be best to ask them to take a look. If you are not knowledgeable in this, it is easy to create an unsafe condition while adjusting a trigger. The gunsmith should know what to do, and how to do it.

 

Here you will note the trigger sear is moved forward to detail the main sear's profile...a governor has been cast in that determines the amount of engagement (distance) the trigger sear travels to its point of rest (battery). I draw file 0.002"-0.003" from the main sear front to decrease the trigger sear's engagement distance. Nothing more is needed with any of the sears at this point. You want to remove all factory grease to prevent debris collections. Personally, I disassemble all components, check recesses and apply mineral oil liberally, then wipe off the excess- reassemble. The lock pawl bearing nuts do not need any more torque over finger tight. And lastly, DO NOT stone the main sear or trigger sear. You need the slight resistance to give you the glass break feel when the sears trip. If desired, one can add a minute 60' chamber to the main sear to further enhance the glass break feel. Last but not least - DO NOT APPLY GRAPHITE POWDER. This is a sure path to component erosion.

 

Didn't realize this forum software doesn't autosize- sorry ^^

 

I removed the "glue" on my AB with nail polish remover.

 

Where is the glue you're removing on the AB3 action? I hope you're referring to the bolt handle-

 

The "glue" on the trigger adjustment screw under the trigger guard.

 

Oh yeh, of course.. sorry about the confusion. I dug the glue out w/a precision screwdriver. I was hoping you had word that maybe the bolt handle had been epoxied in place as I'm still pondering how to remove the bolt handle for inspection/cleanup.