Could you float the barrel form the forearm and bed the forearm to the mag. tube? I haven't had mine apart yet, so I am not sure how that would work. Maybe even bed the the forearm to the barrel to give it even pressure all the way out the length of the forearm. I guess if we could all shoot a sharps we wouldn't have these problems with the mag. tube in the way.

 

Ask your library for a copy of McPhersons book "Accurizing the actory rifle" for complete instructions.

 

Thanks, William, that will be easy since my wife is the Librarian.

Is there anything in the book along the lines I was talking about? I'm roughly familiar with some of the standard methods of bedding leverguns. I thought I was onto something new.

 

Nothing new we can think of! Thank goodness really, someone else has broken the ground for us making the going easier!

Page 45 will start you off with extractor/barrel extension issue.

Page 201 has The Trouble With Lever-Action Stocks. Also single shots and pumps. If I had seen this book first I might like Model 99 Savages a little better…
About page 224 starts the stuff you are looking for with Marlin and Winchester magazine tubes and forends and barrel bands etc.
Then about page 230 he get serious with buttstock modifications. Very interesting stuff.
The next chapter is lever-action receivers.

There is also a very good article in an early 1960’s Gun Digest. They worked over a Marlin, Winchester and Savage 99 and shot them against each other. A good article.
It’s no secret around here that I like books so I’ll say you are a lucky guy to have an insider’s access to the interlibrary loan system!

 

Could you float the barrel form the forearm and bed the forearm to the mag. tube?

I have thought about that one also. I think you would need a good bit thicker walled magazine tube. Tig weld that sucker to the receiver and like you said, hang everything on the tube.

 

Try this.

1. Remove Fore end Cap, Fore end, Magazine tube, and all hardware used for attachment.

2. Obtain heavy wall tubing with the same internal diameter as old Magazine tube. (Might need some polishing inside to get a few thousands larger if close.) (About 12" - 14" long should do.) Thread one end for about 1/2" to 2/4", depending on depth of shoulder in receiver.

3. Tap receiver with same threads just to depth of internal shoulder of receiver.

4. Screw new Magazine tube in untill it stopps at shoulder inside Receiver.

5. Slide Fore end onto new Magazine tube and mark tube at end of fore end. (May need to remove some wood for clearance to get it over new Magazine tube.)

6. Cut off tube and make and install with silver solder, a new magazine plug, drilled and tapped for 1/4 X 28 bolt. (Possible to use old mag plug by drilling and tapping.)

7. Weld washer with 5/16" diameter hole flush with front of fore end cap. File smooth and polish. (Try to get washer the same thickness as fore end cap.)

8. Assemble Magazine tube Fore end, and Fore end cap to receiver with large oval head 1/4 x 28 bolt to check for fit.

9. Remove any Material pressing against barrel to allow thick sheet of paper to pass betwen barrel and fore end and fore end cap.

10. Disassemble and blur new parts at this time.

11. Re Assemble all parts including Magazine follower and spring, (Spring will need to be cut.) (Use blue Loc-Tite on Magazine threads for final assembly to Receiver.)

(NOTE)

This system works. New Mag will hold between four and five cartridges, depending on fore arm used.

(Wish I had taken photo's)

Lee L.

 

I have thought about that one also. I think you would need a good bit thicker walled magazine tube. Tig weld that sucker to the receiver and like you said, hang everything on the tube.

If you think about it, the tube would be reinforced just from the bedding surrounding it. You are right though, you would need some way of anchoring the tube to the receiver.

 

William, The McPherson book came in today, all the way from Prescott, Arizona. Surprising to me it came from a community college library. Looks like it has never been opened.

 

Seems odd. There are so many good books and so few readers.
For the average tinkerers like us this book is hard to beat.
Take a look and the draw bolt for the butt stock. I have my eye open for another butt stock for my .30-30AI. I sure want to do this simple mod.

McPherson wrote a good book.He is able to express himself very well. From what I understand his labor rates are not out of line for his work either.

Do you have it for two weeks?

 

Interesting how much importance McPherson places on the buttstock connection. I don't doubt he is right but It just doesn't seem that it would matter that much.

I think I will keep my eye open for a pawnshop "clunker" to try some of his methods on.

 

I believe the way we handle recoil is the most important factor in shooting small groups, especially with lever action rifles. With the large drop of the butt stock on the levers it is pretty important to have the stock firmly attached to the receiver. When the Winchester Hi-walls were common as varmint rifles many were modified in a similar manner.

Another very interesting factor in lever action accuracy has to do with headspace. McPherson has a few interesting thoughts on headspace starting on page 314.
There is little doubt in my mind that headspace is a major factor in the superior accuracy Greg Mushial receives from his Marlins. His rifles all have barrels that have been carefully installed and closely chambered

McPherson has some very good thoughts on locking bolts for the Marlin 336 and his description of how it affects headspace is clearly written.
In my undereducated opinion the locking bolt and barrel thread area are the weak points with the Marlin 336.

The modifications he made on his wife’s 1894 .44 Magnum are very interesting and well thought out. They mostly deal with smooth feeding, reliable extraction and ejection.