The Savage Model 93 is a rimfire rifle . How did yours get to be a Hornet ?

 

I don't know. I just double checked it and stamped on the barrel it reads Savage model 93 22 Hornet. No accu-trigger, single shot, heavy barrel.

 

I was looking around and find on a predator's forum that these guns were a special run made for a store but Savage wouldn't tell the gun store owner what store they were made for but that only 10,000 were made. Congrats !

 

Wow, thanks Fred. Time to do some research I guess.

 

I also have one of these rifles & am having bolt separation problems, any ideas out there ??

 

That's an eight year old thread which shows good questions last forever. Welcome to the forum. Just by looking at the pictures available on the internet, it seems that is a rimfire action that locks on the bolt handle. Is it your bolt that separating or cases? Cases I can understand. That's excess tolerances and common in Hornet chambers. If you're blowing rims on a rimfire, it's a headspace and/or recoil issue.
More details can bring better answers.

 

When opening the bolt, sometimes the rear of the bolt separate's from the front half leaving the front part in the action. after putting it back together I can cycle the bolt numerous times without a problem , lay it down & come back twenty or so minutes later & it will come apart when cycled???

 

There is a mechanical connection between the two that is coming undone. That takes looking at it to figure out what that is. I've never seen one, sorry.

 

do you have any idea who may have confronted this problem before ? maybe I could pick there brain for an answer .

 

There have been several rimfire actions modified to shoot the Hornet over the years. The Sako M78 & the Ruger 77/22 are two that come to mind, but I'm sure there are others. As they all rely on the rimfire action lock up, none shoot all that well & all seem to have or end up with headspace problems. I would regulate that Savage 93 conversion to a wall hanger/conversation piece or sell it & cut my losses. The only Hornet made today that shoots very well is the CZ 527, which is a true front locking lug centerfire.

 

Both the actions you named have duel locking lugs. Don't be fooled by looks. The Model 43 Winchester looks like a M69A rim-fire but it has duel lugs. (The bolt handle is one) Same is true with the Ruger and Sako.
The only rimfire converted I can think of is the 1922 Springfield. Sedgely and others converted those single lug guns to Hornet and some are still shooting.
The cure for separated Hornet cases is make it a K-Hornet.

 

The Sako M78 Hornet, which is a rimfire action has only one locking lug located on the bottom rear of the bolt (when closed). It locks into a slot cut in the bottom of the receiver. It's about 1/8" wide & a little over 1/4" long. The bolt handle is not a locking lug, but rather a safety lug should the locking lug fail. I've owned 3 of them & none gave good accuracy & all had headspace slop of around .010". Combine that with the variable rim thickness of Hornet ammo & any consistent accuracy was impossible. I am not saying with some work & luck one can't get a rimfire based Hornet to shoot fairly well. It's just, IMHO, not worth the expense & time when you can get a true centerfire action. If one has a Ruger 77/22 Hornet that shoots well thank your lucky stars, as they do exist. I'd just rather not gamble on it. I noticed that both responses about Rugers shooting well were after the Ruger "shim" kit was installed & the chambers K'd. So I stand by my opinion that rimfire based Hornets are not good choices.

 

Hawkeye Hunter -

Speak for yourself. My Ruger M77/22 that came from the factory in .22 Hornet and then converted to KHornet shoots just fine with loads of AA 1680, Rem 6 1/2 and bullets ranging from 35 gr to 45 gr. Ruger provided bolt shims for headspacing, but found my rifle didn't require them. Locked up just fine.

 

Same with my Ruger M77 Hornet. Bought it used at a show. Looked like it was almost new til stuck a bore scope in it. Sent out got a new to me barrel put on and made into a K hornet and sleeved the bolt. Haven't tried the AA 1680 yet but good results with Lil Gun and the 35 gr V max.

 

Almost certainly Savage service department can help you. I'm not sure if they can do by phone.
I'll give it a shot--

Can you separate the two halves of the bolt while out of the action? Can you take it apart and put it back together a few times and figure out what is supposed to hold it? Cross pin? interlocking lug? set screw? spring clip?
Does the bolt handle rotation cock the gun?
I found the Schematic with a blow up of the bolt but doesn't show what I need to see.
The front half of the bolt is not supposed to turn in the action, but he rear half turns with the bolt handle. The drawing calls for three #32 parts they call "extractor spring pins" which really makes no sense. the extractor pin is that band around the front part of the bolt. That band is a spring that hold in the cartridge guide on the left side, the extractor on the right side and the firing pin in the middle. It needs no pins and they show those pins in a different place than what the name implies.
HERE is a video of taking the bolt apart. Your's has come unscrewed.

 

Almost certainly Savage service department can help you. I'm not sure if they can do by phone.
I'll give it a shot--

Can you separate the two halves of the bolt while out of the action? Can you take it apart and put it back together a few times and figure out what is supposed to hold it? Cross pin? interlocking lug? set screw? spring clip?
Does the bolt handle rotation cock the gun?
I found the Schematic with a blow up of the bolt but doesn't show what I need to see.
The front half of the bolt is not supposed to turn in the action, but he rear half turns with the bolt handle. The drawing calls for three #32 parts they call "extractor spring pins" which really makes no sense. the extractor pin is that band around the front part of the bolt. That band is a spring that hold in the cartridge guide on the left side, the extractor on the right side and the firing pin in the middle. It needs no pins and they show those pins in a different place than what the name implies.
HERE is a video of taking the bolt apart. Your's has come unscrewed.

Almost certainly Savage service department can help you. I'm not sure if they can do by phone.
I'll give it a shot--

Can you separate the two halves of the bolt while out of the action? Can you take it apart and put it back together a few times and figure out what is supposed to hold it? Cross pin? interlocking lug? set screw? spring clip?
Does the bolt handle rotation cock the gun?
I found the Schematic with a blow up of the bolt but doesn't show what I need to see.
The front half of the bolt is not supposed to turn in the action, but he rear half turns with the bolt handle. The drawing calls for three #32 parts they call "extractor spring pins" which really makes no sense. the extractor pin is that band around the front part of the bolt. That band is a spring that hold in the cartridge guide on the left side, the extractor on the right side and the firing pin in the middle. It needs no pins and they show those pins in a different place than what the name implies.
HERE is a video of taking the bolt apart. Your's has come unscrewed.

Yes sir, I can separate the two halves while out & for the life of me I can't see a pin hole or snap ring grove or threads that holds this sucker together. via schematic parts #61,7,8,& 9 stay in the action & #61 assembly comes loose & out ??Part 60 is not there(center fire )
Push comes to shove I'll call the service dept. & see if I can pry something out of them without sending the complete fire arm back to them ??
Thanks so very much trying to help !!

 

Did you watch the youtube of the bolt disassembly? Assembly is the reverse. It seems to me your 'bushing' is only engaged by a half thread. You need to tighten it. Start the video about 7:55 to see the process.
Somebody forgot to tighten the nut on yours. Every time you open the bolt, it unscrews a little more, but closing the bolt catches part of a thread.

 

There are no threads in or out to thread together. savage c/s wants me to sent it in so they can check it out & I ready don't want to ,cost & loss by usps ?